Our Basecamp 20X: The Kit, Some Upgrades & Essential Add-Ons And An Organization Scheme 01Sep22

I've wanted to go hardsided in a camper since my Wyoming swing several years ago; the howling wind buffeting the canvas camper was nearly intolerable. We loved the effective E1 but I wanted comfort and convenience to be improved. I have always liked the Airstreams but the Bambi has not had the clearance for some sites I choose. I've been making Kala look and the Black Series HQs had clearance and a nice outside kitchen alternative, but no storage. The new Ember Overlands seemed excellent with really great suspension, but were big and heavy. Several years ago Airstream built a really small Basecamp 16' with an alternative look to the clouds, more like a spaceship. Recently they built a 20' Basecamp as well as added an optional offroad package called the "X." So, with things aligned, we went "in" and were fortunate to score a used, and clean, '21 Basecamp 20X, right here in Colorado. We've had it in the Blodgett driveway and have received many comments, onlookers, and compliments, and had to give a number of tours. Here's first ownership (title in my hand) and celebration after maiden tow back to Blodgett.

We've been prepping and packing all of our stuff into the new 20X from the E1 and it has plenty of convenient storage spots to organize properly. Two very nice add-ons which the prior owner had done to this already fully loaded 20X (solar, A/C, AGM batteries, "X" package, and microwave) are a backup camera and an anti-sway hitch. From inside the Crusher Too I have a view of the tail of the 20X.

And, I can attest even after just the first pull from Poncha to the Springs that the anti-sway setup is a great, even if very heavy, addition for towing high single-axel trailers on a hitch ball.

I even picked up a wireless tire pressure monitoring tool from the prior owner. Yes, 80 psi is correct! The 20X tires are bigger and harder than most I've ever encountered.

After thorough cleaning inside, and testing all the features and appliances (which worked perfectly!), I shelf-lined all the cabinets and laid rubber-backed carpeting throughout (this move really helped preserve the E1 well, and it's comfy). We've found the simple $15 rubber-backed 3'x5' outdoor mats from Costco to be great for this purposes. Kala grabbed several and I made some cuts to fit.

I find the Rubbermaid Roughneck storage tubs to be the best. They last forever, are very rugged, have a decent locking lid, are easy to handle and carry, and stack solidly. Fortunately under the front bay dinette in the 20X the 14 gal and double stacked 10 gal tubs fit perfectly. I carry all the tools, gas lines for appliances, chocks, leveling blocks, etc. organized in three such tubs. I can reach them from the front door easily on arrival at a campsite, as these are the items I need first.

I then went on a tear ordering replacement parts, staples and add-ons that I "needed." In addition to TP and black-tank chem pods, the first notable thing is that the prior owners (and confirmed by other owners online) said the magnetic spring latches on the cabinet doors fail and/or bust if mis-handled. He'd had replacements on order from Windish for months and I found $10 ea or $3 ea items back-ordered from online RV vendors. My search continued though and I found the exact Chinese part available at $1 each HERE and ordered ten of them, which I received in days. I repaired the cabinet latches that were busted and stowed the rest for the future.

Next on the upgrade list was cabinet lighting. The cabin is well lighted but one cannot see into the cabinets themselves to ensure retrieval of what you want. I chose some motion-sensing, USB rechargeable LED lights. A magnet to which they adhere sticks to surfaces with double back tape, allowing the light to be removed for charging. The system is awesome. They are available in twos HERE.

 

The exhaust fan is just 1/8" plastic cover between me and the cold in the shoulder seasons and winter. I bought the Van Essentials HERE to cover the fan when needed... it magnetically attaches to the frame of the fan (I installed mating magnets beneath the edges of the frame).

Kala got us a 3 step Cosco ladder to reach the roof when needed to check something or to attach our new Moonshade. This shade/rain protection scheme is different than rolling out a permanently attached awning but it seems really slick and garnered tons of cudos. It is a smidge small however. The awning sheds water well and is super light ~ it sets up quickly like a simple tent with shock-corded poles and attaches simply to the camper roof with suction cup anchors (it's nice to have slick aluminum for this but other connection schemes exist). Corners have poles that are tied down to stakes as usual, or in an alternative config the poles touch the camper and the shade is cantilevered. Either way I think I can get it secure. The only issue I see beyond size is moving from the stand alone awning assembled to everything tied down. When there is a wind the awning can act like a kite till secured; I even stake it down when partially assembled on the ground here in Colorado.

Back inside it's all aluminum too ~ so attaching magnets to the wall for removable hooks or other storage schemes is a non-starter. Or is it? I bought some neodymium magnets with double-sided tape on the back HERE and stick them on the wall wherever I want (but they are still removable). I also bought a bunch of neodymium magnetic "fridge" hooks HERE (carry up to 60# each) to attach to the wall magnets when needed. Here's just an native rug wall hanging with hooks but there might be a lot more eventually.

The rear 6 person dinette makes into the master bed ~ Kala and I will leave this up all the time. With the bed assembled we like to have a cover over the 5" foam cushioning and Kala found a reasonably matching inexpensive bed-cover that tucks in everywhere. Beneath the bed we have room for our two 55L Patagonia Black Hole duffel bags of clothes and whatever else we pack in for a particular trip. There's a keen rear door on the Basecamp which allows ready access below the bed's rear and great flow through ventilation. It's a weird just 9" high opening so in here I've stored the stuff we often pull out to set up the outside of our campsite: the Moonshade, a roll up table, the grill stand, the skottle, cafe lighting, collapsible trash barrel, and a stove. Chairs are typically in the Crusher Too.

We've always cleaned up in the E1 with the tiny dust pan and broom but the power and scale of the 20X begged for more - I love the Eureka RapidClean 41A corded handheld for bare floors, carpeted floors, and everything cars ~ I stole this 120v machine for the camper.

There remains some large loose items, and one (at this point) of the two needed 20A generators to boot, which will be tied down on the floor and then moved to outside upon setup. Basecamps have several sets of serious D rings on the flooring for exactly this purpose (or for a MTB or kayak). These include the Solaire grill, any firewood, a 5 gallon safety gas can (to fill generators) and ultimately two generators. Why two? ~ the A/C and microwave on the Basecamp need a 30 amp draw and rather than buy a 150# Honda I can run two 50# EU2000is in parallel. How often have I needed A/C in Colorado? ~ Never, so it is not urgent. When I do pop for the 2nd generrator it will be the Companion model which includes a 30 amp socket (compatible with the 20X plug) and appropriate 30 amp breakers.

Most stuff in the post thus far has been add-ons, but I've discussed little on the Airstream Basecamp itself per se. There has been much written so I'll be brief. Our new hardsided camper is a loaded '21 Basecamp 20X with forest green & grey interior that we acquired used (for substantial savings in $ and lead time). It kicks ass. I've captured plenty of exterior pics but here are a few more comprehensive inside shots looking forward and looking rearward.

The true maiden shakedown trip begins this weekend in the Roaring Fork Valley. Difficult CG will be achieved over Independence Pass from Leadville to Aspen. Bro Brown will be on the trip to fish the Fork, the Pan, and do other Aspen stuff. That said, I have pulled it up some hills and my Crusher Too instantaneous MPG readout has gone below 4 but is typically 4-6 on the mountain passes "up." If there's a gas station, I better stop.

UPDATE 01Sep22 - The shakedown went great. No leaks. Awning held true in heavy rain. I slept like a babe. However, the stock low pressure gas connect failed to drive my external appliances (Tembo Tusk skottle, Solaire grill, Coleman stove, or Mr Heater heater ~ even one at a time); that's to say nothing of future needs like a propane fire pit. I did a "survey" of my appliances to gauge my needs:

• Skottle uses 1# high pressure throwaway bottle with screw connect for 10K BTU burner
• Ceramic grill uses 1# high pressure throwaway with screw connect for 14K BTU ceramic burner
• Stove uses 1# high pressure throwaway with screw connect for 20K BTU burners
• Heater uses #1 high pressure throwaway with screw connect for 4K or 9K heating
  
• Firepit uses high pressure with std propane tank interface for 54K BTU use - I will need to get an adapter to have this connect via throwaway bottle screw connect as well
  

I redesigned the LP delivery system on the BC20X. I chose to add a "3 way splitter" to the #1 tank (the stock BC20X has a keen regulator that will allow designation of a "1st tank" and when it empties will auto-switch to draw from the 2nd tank and turn an indicator red so you know to refill #1).  I wanted to draw external full/high pressure appliances from #1 so as to always be assured of furnace, etc. by keeping #2 in abeyance. Off of the 3 way I run the camper internal appliances (through the keen regulator) as well as two other high pressure appliances simultaneously via these POL>1# screw converter hoses (as I always have on the popup, via an 3rd external tank)... the new lines wrap neatly in the BC20X covered propane cabinet. I may go to 3 simultaneous appliances, but not yet. It works fine in the driveway and will suit for Gunny and RMNP outings as true tests. I always have 1 pound bottles as backup.

There's more ~ to Kala's likely dismay, there are some added "essentials." You knew I'd get to the issue - BC20X has no stock audio. Ours does now - a JBL Xtreme 3 wireless, IP67, 5 driver speaker that will serve all audio purposes. I previewed many and Sonos had unwanted "features" and the low end stuff did not sound good. The JBLX3 is a basic Bluetooth and stereo mini-DIN streaming speaker which sounds good (5 drivers and 25w out). My iPhone with Flacbox app streams great on BT and my mobile HiFi Onkyo X1 streams great via hardwired or BT. Either app lets me adjust EQ to the situation, including the response curve of the JBLX3. I did not need the JBL app. Tunes were provided by me but transduced by BroBrown's boombox on the last outing ~ he sparked me to up the game. I'll have two EQ curves, in the camper & in the wild, but I need to measure more accurately with pro tools. Sounds great hanging in the camper or sitting on a picnic table outside. Others can pair to "educate" me.

And there's even more... We had great fires on the maiden voyage to Aspen but there's not always a fire ring and there is sometimes a fire ban ~ further, I may not want to burn wood any more. I chose a keen Outland Living 2" "fire pit" driven by propane to provide my future campsite vibe beyond the JBLX3 described above. It is very cool and the adapter I needed was just ~$10.

UPDATE 15Sep22... There are no backup lights on campers to speak of, including the BC20X. I found it nigh impossible to rightly backup at night, even into the Nest parking spots, without lights. I needed something and investigated a passel of alternatives from super-LEDs hardwired to the backup signal on the pigtail to handhelds. I settled satisfyingly on THESE rechargeable  1500 lumen work-lights with magnets. They allow me to simply attach them when needed to the two "protection bumpers" on the BC20X. Just $35!

UPDATE 28Sep22... DRing Circus Featuring Bungees. Basecamp campers feature shelf spaces with dark glass doors that are magnetically latching. The latches do not hold sufficiently while driving and items can fly out. I initially rigged some off-the-shelf bungees and kept most of the doors somewhat closed. However, I wanted a permanent and more secure solution. I decided to install custom fitted bungees in the best locations in the camper to assure the doors would not swing open in travel. I purchased bungee cord material HERE and hook end hardware HERE.

I also purchased small black DRings HERE and 5/8" #10 MDF screws HERE for proper anchor points for the retaining bungees.

Over each of the four sets of shelves, and inside the sink storage area I installed this hardware, each time customizing the length of bungee to meet the requirement. I used Kelly green to match the forest green camper. When we arrive at the campsite I take off all the bungees and store till I plan to be underway again. Scheme seems to work ~ the latches may give way but the stuff within the cabinet does not fly out; it may shift however... we've found it best to line the shelves with stuff that's somewhat "sticky."

UPDATE 03Oct22... Some final accoutrements... The 112v vacuum was great but not as versatile as we'd like for camper use so we moved that back into the house for auto & fly rod building uses and acquired an 18v Li-ion Makita handheld to replace it (HERE). We also needed a new drive for the camper with the older Makita drives' batteries pooping out quickly again. So, I bought the batteries and charger with a new drive HERE and saved money on everything all up. It sucks gr8.

We have prior dealt with messy entryway picnicking under the camper awning on occasion (weather or ground issues). We've never owned an "area rug" for the camper outside; now we do. I got the medium-sized 8'x8' dirt-free camping mat from CGear HERE. It fits our smaller footprint awning well and keeps the area clean. It comes in its own storage and carry bag and it is rugged and stakes out well.